302 trany - Muscular Mustangs
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post #1 of 12 Old 09-30-2006, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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302 trany

hay everyone, i picked up a 85 stang with a blown motor and trany for $100. i pulled a 302 out of a 79 ford ranger with a c6 trany but the shifting linkege just will not line up. so here is my question. what trany would be best and ezy to find and afford to mount to the 302 to fit my 85.
my 85 is and auto. would it be ezy to put a clutch in and just go 5 speed? or should i scrap the 302 all together and go with sumthing els?
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post #2 of 12 Old 10-01-2006, 08:53 AM
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if you want an auto that will work, go with an AOD for street use ( if your not going to use it for hard core racing), or a c4 if you plan on putting some power behind it. by the way, what wont line up when you try to install it? i wouldnt try to convert it to a stick, its easy enough to stick a flywheel on the motor, but installing a cluth pedal and cluth cable can be a pain in the butt. its not impossible, infact i think that they sell kits to do it. hope this can help.
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post #3 of 12 Old 10-01-2006, 02:05 PM
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I agree, by far the hardest thing with swapping to a manual transmission is installing the pedals. If that is the direction you decide to go then I'd suggest removing the drivers seat so you have alot of room to get under the dash, and give yourself alot of time to get it done. A chiltons/haynes manual wouldn't be a bad idea either.

As for automatics the AOD is great for a street car, but for anything with power a stock AOD won't hold up. I've even known people who have had bad luck with modified AOD's. I've personally driven over 200K miles with a stock AOD but that was with a near stock Mustang. Like codmac said above a C4 is a good choice for a modified Mustang, but some people don't like going in that direction (especially with steep rear gears) because it doesn't have overdrive.
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post #4 of 12 Old 10-01-2006, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
by the way, what wont line up when you try to install it?
mostly everything! lol first the frame of the car is in the way to get the linkage from the shifter inside the car to the shifter on the trany, then the shifter on the trany is going in the rong direction for the shifter inside the car to even work properly. as far as i can tell the only way for me to make that trany work would be to remove the stock shifter inside the car, and cut a hole in the body of the car and mount a shifter rod right to the trany to make my own shifter. but i realy dont want to do that.
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post #5 of 12 Old 10-07-2006, 06:06 PM
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you know i just reread your post and i didnt realize the first time i read it but you said that the motor and trans were out of a ranger, yeah, that wont work. as you have already found out, and no, you dont want start cutting holes. let me know what you are wanting to do with the car and i'll give you my best recomendations.

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post #6 of 12 Old 10-09-2006, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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well my plan was to rebuild that 302 and try to get around 350 to 400 hp. will a c4 trany bolt to that 302 or do i need to find a different motor? or would it be better to get a 351 block and just build a motor? the problem is im a big noob and havent yet rebuilt a motor so this will be my fist.

what i was going to do with the 302 was getting a 0.030 overhaul kit from summit, also cam berrings etc. then get the single-plenum intake with a douple pumper, and get the stock heads ported. altho like i sead im still a noob and dont get all the math of it yet. so help on that would be great.
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post #7 of 12 Old 10-09-2006, 05:31 PM
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stick with the 302 and rebuild it like you had planned. if your only wanting about 350-400 hp then the 302 will do just fine and will keep the weight on the front end down. if your going to buy a .030 rebuild kit, go ahead and get for a 331 or 347. it will be more exspensive but it WILL get you the power you want and more. make sure that all the machine work and cam bearings are done at a reputable machine shop, oh and freeze plugs too. the rest is really not that difficult, just make sure you get a hanes or chiltons manual and follow all the tourqe specs. if you dont have a torque wrench the buy one, you cant do the job witout one and its great to have around. as far as the tranny, a c4 will hook right up with no problems and will hold up to the horse power your looking for. just remember that a c4 only has three gears so if you plan on running done the highway, your going to be running higher rpms which overall means shorter engine life. with the intake i would probably stick with a dual plane unless the kit that you buy is made for really high rpms and then you have to make sure you match a cam with the intake. its very important to do this because if you dont your engine will not be able to live up to its potential. if you want to keep the car streetable, stick with the dual plane intake and a mid range rpm level and go with 3:73 or 4:10 gears for the rearend, this combonation will still give you a **** of a jump off the line and then when the rpms get into there range, you'll really be able to take off. porting the heads will work good, but if you can find an old set of 289 heads you would be able to pull out even more horsepower. those stock heads have a 64 cc combustion chamber and the 289's have about a 54-56 cc chamber. that calculates into more hp. let me know if you have anymore questions.

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post #8 of 12 Old 10-10-2006, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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ok so i was tryn to peace together sum parts for the project with my limited knowledge. so if you could look them over and tell me if i need to change sumthing or add sumthing it would be great if you could let me know. also i wasent shure what you meant by getting the rebuild for a 331 or 347. i can get the 289 heads from a buddie of mine, do i need to port the 289 heads or leave em stock? also should get a 4 barrol carb or should i just stick with the 2 barrel? thanks!





http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku
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post #9 of 12 Old 10-10-2006, 10:12 AM
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ok, i'll start off by telling you about the 331/347 stroker. 331/347 stroker reffers to cubic inches. when you bore the cylinders out you increase the cubic inches, a .030 over bore takes a 302 to a 306. what a stroker kit does is lengthen the stroke to further increase the cubic inches and these kits also make a butt load of torque due to the increased length of the stroke ( stroker). if you are going to go through the trouble of boreing your block then its worth it to go with a stroker kit because it will give way more power. Coast High Performance is one of the biggest and most popular companies when it comes to strokers. any other 347 stroker kit will have a problem with burning oil because the wrist pin cuts into the oil grove in the pistons which causes it to burn oil. coast high redesigned it so that the wrist pin doesnt cut into the oil groove and thats a good thing. i'll put some links to there page at the end. ok, now on to the heads. your probably going to want to rebuild the 289 heads, new valves, heavier springs to handle the cam and steel valve keepers and it never hurts to port them, the more air it can breath, the better ( to an extent). chek out ebay, theres almost always a good set of heads on there. if you find and set and you want my opinion just send me a link to the page and i'll check them out. the cam that you picked will work great, thats a real good cam. alright, now the carb. you want a 4bbl, but i would stick with a 650-670cfm, 750 is just to much for that engine. intake, Weiand Stealth is a great carb intake, it has longer, bigger runners for higher rpms yet it is a dual plane and is also good for low end power too. its a great combo.
8)
http://www.coasthigh.com/Assemblies/Ford/ford_347.htm

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... lse&N=+115

Go Ford, or go the **** home!!!!!!!
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post #10 of 12 Old 10-10-2006, 10:16 AM
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the link to summit didnt go through on my other post, here it is again

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... 5&y=6&x=32

Go Ford, or go the **** home!!!!!!!
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