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post #11 of 24 Old 01-12-2009, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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My computer status remains the same. I do need an education on the computer and the sensors that send messages to it. If I do get the code telling me that one sensor is giving me the problem, and not the engine, or low oil, would it make sense to replace the sensor, or even replace the computer? and where is this computer, I would like to locate it.

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post #12 of 24 Old 01-12-2009, 05:05 PM
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Well usually a computer code will point to a problem but the problem isn't necassarily the sensor. For example you might get a code for the oxygen sensor which could mean the sensor is bad but it could also mean there is another problem causing the sensor to read wrong such as a bad mac sensor or a bad spark plug. (and a million other things)

The computer is behind the passenger side kick panel. You shouldn't need access to it to read computer codes though as the test connectors are under the hood...on the drivers side near the shock tower if I remember correctly.

Good luck finding the problem, trust me we've all been there before.



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post #13 of 24 Old 01-16-2009, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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I just bought a Actron Code Scanner off eBay, a new one at that. Now to learn to use it. I went under the hood, looking for a connection with the same footprint, but didn't see one, what I saw is some kind of a connection with the words "LLC Test", it does have a different pin configuration though, what say ye?

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post #14 of 24 Old 01-16-2009, 04:47 PM
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This is what the connectors should look like. The larger one should have six pins and there should also be a single pin connector right next to it. Hopefully they gave you the right kind.





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post #15 of 24 Old 01-16-2009, 04:48 PM
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Found this on google, should give you a better idea of what it actually looks like.




If the connector on your scanner looks like it fits this style connector then you've got the wrong kind of scanner, that is for OBD II.




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post #16 of 24 Old 01-16-2009, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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[img]/Users/paulhannan/Desktop/100_4777_2.jpg/,Users/paulhannan/Desktop/100_4775_2.jpg,/Users/paulhannan/Desktop/100_4779.jpg,/Users/paulhannan/Desktop/100_4776_2.jpg

Im not sure how to add photo's, but here is what I have.[/img]

give me your email address and i can send you pics of what I have
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post #17 of 24 Old 01-16-2009, 11:24 PM
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yea that looks like the right connector, you just have to take the cap off the connector on the car.

My email is on the contact page. You should have it, I responded to your email a couple of weeks ago. Did you not get it?



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post #18 of 24 Old 02-04-2009, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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Problem solved, after weeks of trying to fix the problem my self, $530. and two days in the shop. Replaced the EGR Valve, the EGR sensor, along with new plugs. prior to giving up on my finding what the problem was, the engine was missing severly , and even after they replaced the EGR stuff, it was not running on all 8, but its all well now thank god.
next challange.....brake shoes and front discs.

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post #19 of 24 Old 02-04-2009, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfhannan
Problem solved, after weeks of trying to fix the problem my self, $530. and two days in the shop. Replaced the EGR Valve, the EGR sensor, along with new plugs. prior to giving up on my finding what the problem was, the engine was missing severly , and even after they replaced the EGR stuff, it was not running on all 8, but its all well now thank god.
next challange.....brake shoes and front discs.
Glad you got it worked out. Stuff like that sucks because many times it's next to impossible to diagnose.

Brake stuff is fairly easy. The hardest thing about doing the front discs is removing/packing/installing the bearings. When buying the brake stuff just make sure you get some bearing grease, new cotter pins, and seals for the inner bearings. You'll probably want to get a can of "brake quiet" to spray on the back of the pads so they don't squeak.



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post #20 of 24 Old 02-04-2009, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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I appreciate all your help, thanks

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